LG smart TVs run webOS, a closed operating system that only installs apps LG has approved for its Content Store. IPTV Smarters Pro was never one of them, so searching for it on the TV itself returns nothing, or a look-alike app you shouldn't trust. This isn't a bug on your end and it isn't something a reinstall fixes, because there's nothing to reinstall on the TV. The two paths that actually work are casting or mirroring a phone running the real app, or connecting a small streaming device - a Fire TV Stick or an Android TV box - to an HDMI port and running Smarters Pro there instead. Either way, the login and channels stay the same.

Scope the problem before you touch a single setting. Open the same channel on your phone or another device using the same account. If it plays fine there, the fault sits between the LG TV and the source feeding it - the casting link, the HDMI box, or webOS itself - not your subscription or the line. If it fails everywhere, the cause is upstream: your connection, the server, or the account, and no LG-specific fix will help. This one check saves you from restarting the TV, reinstalling an app, or swapping streaming devices for a problem that was never local to the television.

When picture does load on an LG TV but stutters or freezes only there, the usual cause is decoding, not the network. Older or lower-end webOS models use a software decoder for some formats, and a 4K feed running at 15-25 Mbps can overload it even when your connection has plenty of headroom to spare. Switching the stream to a lower resolution profile, or moving playback to a Fire TV Stick or Android box with proper hardware decoding, usually clears it. webOS TVs also run on limited memory, so a full power cycle - not just closing the app - clears background processes that build up over a long session.

Casting and mirroring add a second wireless hop on top of the stream itself, so a weak link between your phone and the LG TV shows up as constant rebuffering even when the stream itself is solid. Keep the phone on the same Wi-Fi band as the TV rather than switching between 2.4 and 5 GHz, close background apps that compete for bandwidth, and keep the phone near the TV during playback. If dropped casting recovers the moment you switch away from a channel and back, that confirms the session stalled rather than the underlying stream failing, which points you at the mirroring link, not the account.